Before You Climb in the Snowy Season | The Basics of Gear and Mindset

A snow-covered mountain offers clear air, stillness, and spectacular scenery you can't see in the snow-free season. At the same time, a snow-covered mountain is an entirely different thing from the snow-free season. On the same mountain the danger changes greatly, and if any one of gear, skill and judgment is lacking, it can lead to a serious accident. Here we lay out the basics to have in place before you climb in the snowy season. This is an introduction to general ways of thinking; carry out your actual actions at your own responsibility and judgment.

First, build experience in the snow-free season

Before taking on a snowy mountain, what matters most is to first walk the same mountain or a nearby one in the snow-free season and learn the terrain and course with your body. Simply knowing the places where the route is hard to read, the places exposed to wind, and the places that take time changes the level of safety on a snowy day enormously.

The basics of gear

Anti-slip footgear: depending on the amount of snow and the slope, use chain spikes / light crampons / crampons appropriately. On steep slopes, an ice axe and mastery of how to use it are a prerequisite.
Cold-weather clothing and layering: getting wet with sweat robs you of body heat. Dress in layers of synthetics or wool that let you avoid a sweat chill. Keeping the extremities warm — gloves, hat, goggles — is also important.
Footwear and spares: waterproof boots, spare gloves, trail food, a thermos (a hot drink) and other gear, with plenty to spare.

The basics of how to act

Early start, early arrival: in the snowy season the days are short and moving takes time. Depart even earlier than in the snow-free season, and set a descent time with plenty of margin.
Check the weather and snow information: recent snowfall, wind, temperature, avalanche danger. Always check the latest information for the day.
The decision to turn back: "don't push it" is the greatest safety measure. If you sense the weather worsening or that you're running behind, have the courage to turn back. The editor too has left records of turning back due to gales in the deep-winter Iwodake and Tengu-dake.

The snow records on this site

The records of the editor actually climbing between December and March are gathered under hike records from the snowy season. From the video and measured times on each page, you can check what the snowy season is actually like. However, conditions change from one day to the next. Treat the records as reference only, and make your judgment according to the situation on the day.

If you're looking for your first peak, see how to choose a mountain as well.